One of the traditional types of footwear worn in Pakistan, the khussa has its roots in the region's history and as such is part of a rich cultural heritage. Initially in the central and southern parts of the country flat wooden slippers were worn — a tradition probably acquired from China. However these slippers were not very efficient in protecting the foot from both dirt and cold weather.
Over time the material was replaced — wood was hefty and heavy whereas in an agrarian society not only was leather easily available but also light and soft. The Lahore Museum showcases in its Islamic Gallery archaic khussas which are hand-crafted leather shoes. Although in use by the rural population for centuries, the khussa arrived in the palaces of the Mughal Empire much later and it was then that its history started to be recorded. The rural word khussa was replaced by the more eloquent Saleem Shahi. Saleem was also the nickname of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir (17th century AD).
There are some visible differences between these two varieties of shoe. The Saleem Shahi has a generally finer shape and is usually decorated with very intricate hand-embroidered patterns in gold (or multi-coloured) thread — fit for the royal court.
The Mughal emperors were not the only rulers in the subcontinent who adopted the khussa. They also adapted the shape and thus different ‘cousins' of the original shoe were born. The most interesting part of the shoe is its curly tip. The left and right are not cut in different shapes as is the case with modern shoes — they can be interchanged.
A more delicate version is worn by woman, which tend to be finer in shape, with delicate embroidery, and a lower cut top which only covers the toes.
The Miscellaneous Gallery in the Lahore Museum also displays portraits of Chinese visitors wearing shoes that are similar to khussas. Even amongst the younger generation of Pakistanis the khussa is recognised as a valuable cultural gift. The various types: Desi Jutta, Saleem Shahi and Nagra khussa all make wonderful, useful gifts. Although very similar in shape, it is the particular patterns and type of leather that give the shoes their identity.
The Saleem Shahi, for instance, tends to be made of goat skin whilst the Nagra is usually made of camel skin. The type of leather determines the weight, texture and durability of the shoe. In modern times, most people are not aware of the differences, and the names used for these shoes are often used interchangeably – for instance the Saleem Shahi is also known as TalaKangi, Chakwali, Multani, Bahawalpuri, Qasoori,
Over time the material was replaced — wood was hefty and heavy whereas in an agrarian society not only was leather easily available but also light and soft. The Lahore Museum showcases in its Islamic Gallery archaic khussas which are hand-crafted leather shoes. Although in use by the rural population for centuries, the khussa arrived in the palaces of the Mughal Empire much later and it was then that its history started to be recorded. The rural word khussa was replaced by the more eloquent Saleem Shahi. Saleem was also the nickname of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir (17th century AD).
There are some visible differences between these two varieties of shoe. The Saleem Shahi has a generally finer shape and is usually decorated with very intricate hand-embroidered patterns in gold (or multi-coloured) thread — fit for the royal court.
The Mughal emperors were not the only rulers in the subcontinent who adopted the khussa. They also adapted the shape and thus different ‘cousins' of the original shoe were born. The most interesting part of the shoe is its curly tip. The left and right are not cut in different shapes as is the case with modern shoes — they can be interchanged.
A more delicate version is worn by woman, which tend to be finer in shape, with delicate embroidery, and a lower cut top which only covers the toes.
The Miscellaneous Gallery in the Lahore Museum also displays portraits of Chinese visitors wearing shoes that are similar to khussas. Even amongst the younger generation of Pakistanis the khussa is recognised as a valuable cultural gift. The various types: Desi Jutta, Saleem Shahi and Nagra khussa all make wonderful, useful gifts. Although very similar in shape, it is the particular patterns and type of leather that give the shoes their identity.
The Saleem Shahi, for instance, tends to be made of goat skin whilst the Nagra is usually made of camel skin. The type of leather determines the weight, texture and durability of the shoe. In modern times, most people are not aware of the differences, and the names used for these shoes are often used interchangeably – for instance the Saleem Shahi is also known as TalaKangi, Chakwali, Multani, Bahawalpuri, Qasoori,
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